PART 2
Day 8
Yah, a sleep in day!
I decided to slow things down today by making my way to a local's coffee shop to work on a few things while enjoying a cappuccino. The sun was out in full force, so the 12C temperature kept things refreshing. Tomorrow would be a big day, so I needed to keep reminding myself to just take it easy today. I loitered for an hour in the quiet upstairs cafe before making my way slowly back to the hotel, passing another random monument I had yet to see...this city has so much charm with such an eclectic feel to it, loved it!
I wasted a few more hours before deciding to burn up some of my British cash I had no more need for. I googled for a brewery, which led me to the well known Brewdog. The place was full, so I committed to staying for awhile as I was not about to give up my bar-front seat anytime soon. One flight of beers and 2 pints later, I regretted my indulgence as I zig zagged my way back to my humble abode in a guilty foggy haze. I needed to be up at 4:30 to head to the airport, so not surprisingly I was not looking forward to that early alarm.
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| Brewdog, definitely not the cheapest brewery |
Day 9
The day started as smooth as one could hope for. The £4.50 express bus got me to the airport early. The Ryanair flight so many had warned me about was enjoyable, and I would have no hesitation using them again. Things though, started to drastically fall apart once I arrived to the car rental desk in Dublin.
Long story short, "SIXT" refused to allow me to waive my insurance coverage due to an absurd technicality. I needed a signed form from my credit card stating they were fine with this....even though I had printed the actual credit card manual that specifically states they covered everything. I also have one of the top traveling credit cards for cases like this. Anyways, they forced me to pay 150 Euros (270cad) extra for their coverage....that one hurt. I would not recommend renting from this company because this was only the beginning of the headaches.
The problem began to compound itself when I began walking around the car. The majority of damage to the vehicle was not reported, and on top of that, there was a shake when driven over 110km, PLUS I immediately got a low tire pressure warning once leaving the airport. My mojo was not feeling it at this point!
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| The entire 5 day route...over 1300km! |
Today I drove 214km direct to Galway on one of their major freeways which included several tolls. My piece of crap car was barely keeping up to the 120km/hr speed limit, and with the persistent shake and low tire pressure warning, my confidence on whether I'd make it to all planned destinations without issue was at an all time low. Once checking into my Airb&b home owned by an old couple, I decided to walk the quick 5 minutes to downtown Galway to take in all the buskers littered along the many pedestrian streets. Galway was a small college town, and all the bars and streets were hopping due to everyone returning for the new semester. I dipped into a quaint rustic Irish bar and had a Guiness accompanied with a classic Irish stew meal...it was amazing. The rain started to intensify, so I decided to make my way back to the house.
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| One of a dozen pedestrian streets |
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| The harbour along Galway |
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| I really enjoyed this bar and the pretty Irish waitresses |
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| Your classic meat and potato plate in Ireland |
Before settling in for the night, another room beside me was being occupied by a nice German couple. I chatted with them for a few minutes before calling it a night....the rain was really putting a damper on everything, so I stayed optimistic for tomorrows forecast...I really needed the clear skies.
Day 10
Today started with an amazing breakfast laid out by the owners of the house. I stuffed my face as much as possible in the attempts to stretch out the next meal. The home owner recommended a beach only locals visited called Dog Bay...so that's exactly where I headed first. It shocked me how many large beaches Ireland had, and this was no exception. Two massive sandy beaches side by side only separated by a thin strip of pasture land stretched out for miles. I first walked a few km along Gurteen Bay, taking in the fresh salty breeze and the much appreciated lack of people. There were maybe 2-3 people here, all locals walking their dog. I thoroughly enjoyed this as I made my way across the pasture land to Dog Bay... an identical sandy beach with its own identity. The rain started up again, and seeing I was getting a little tired always having wet jeans, I picked up my pace and b-lined it straight back to my car.
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| Gurteen Bay |
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| Cool looking thorny bushes |
Passing through the small town of Clifton, I stopped into the local grocery store and enjoyed a delicious 5 Euro box meal before making a last minute decision on my plans. I figured detouring around the scenic Sky Road loop was worth the extra time, rain or no rain. The drive revealed amazing colours in the fields, and the overall experience was quite pleasant, but the rain continued, (now with the added wind), obscuring any potential for panoramic views.
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| Beautiful colours |
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| Top of Sky Road, but the rain obscured the views |
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| Great reds and yellows |
Continuing on, I arrived to one of the more anticipated stops...Connemara Park. The planned 6-8km hike was right up my ally, but, you guessed it, the rain became the determining factor. Sitting in the car. I desperately waited for the rain to subside, (for almost an hour), but it continues to intensify, now pouring down in sheets in a biblical fashion. I had to make the shitty call to continue on which was a crushing blow to my day.
Not much further down the road was the beautiful Kylemore Abby. I took in the sites for a few minutes from the comforts of the car before racing out for a few pictures. I felt I had rushed this attraction, but with the ongoing rain, my options were limited.
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| Beautiful setting, you can see the intensity of the rain here |
The weather forced my hand to change my strategy. I decided to focus my energy on scenic drives, adding the Louisburgh loop to the itinerary. A quick stop at Aasleagh falls also found its way onto the route, but at this point, I was wet, tired, and a bit grumpy with the weather not cooperating, so I set a course back to Galway to conclude my day.
I grabbed a quick shower and headed back to the Galway pedestrian streets for a beer and some Irish music. I chatted up an old Irish couple while enjoying a few Guinness before turning my attention to 2 American ladies. We had a nice chat, but it started to become quite apparent the lady I had zero interest in was taking a liking to me, and the other who I thought was cute, seemed less inclined. Irritated, I grabbed a quick Jamison shot and called it a night.
Day 11
The sun was out!!
I departed Galway rejuvenated after having another great breakfast at the house, heading south this time towards the Cliffs of Moher, (the most visited natural attraction in Ireland). I opted to take several narrow back roads which meandered along the rugged coast. I also found time to stop at several beaches along the way which seemed to be around every corner . This significantly added time to my day, but it was worth getting off the tourist track whenever possible.
I departed Galway rejuvenated after having another great breakfast at the house, heading south this time towards the Cliffs of Moher, (the most visited natural attraction in Ireland). I opted to take several narrow back roads which meandered along the rugged coast. I also found time to stop at several beaches along the way which seemed to be around every corner . This significantly added time to my day, but it was worth getting off the tourist track whenever possible.
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| One of the back roads |
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| One of many beaches |
Pulling into the Cliffs of Moher, I gazed upon the bustling hordes of tourists I expected to see. Rows upon rows of buses were seen in one area, with a massive car park in another. It was 8 euros to enter which I grudgingly paid. I briskly walked past the main viewing area, continuing onwards for approximately 6km to get away from everyone. The expansive cliffs were grande in stature, with seagulls dancing adjacent to them from the strong winds bouncing off the walls.
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| Cliffs of Moher |
Once content on seeing the south cliffs, I then proceeded in the opposite direction towards the O'Brians castle. The 1800's tower added a nice flare to the cliffs backdrop, but after a few hrs, I had my fill and continued driving southbound. Next on my route were some recommended cliffs near Kilkee similar to the Cliffs of Moher, just much less touristy....and they were right! I walked roughly 4km here with only a dozen or so sharing the trail with me. I even found time to lay in the grass near the cliffs edge soaking in the views...definitely worth the effort getting here.
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| O'Brian castle |
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| Laying in the grass near Kilkee |
It was getting a bit late, so I took another back road, shortcutting it to the main road. It was this road where I stumbled on a small castle in the middle of nowhere with not a soul in site. I pulled over and enjoyed some wild blackberries, taking in the views at a leisurely pace, but time was ticking, and I still had a few hrs of driving a head of me.
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| Random castle on a back road |
After a quick stop in Bunratty to see an “ok” castle, I continued to the small town of Adare where my B&B was located. I started to feel a tickle in the back of my throat, and knew a cold was brewing, so I briefly toured the town before lazily stopping in a local tavern for a beer and burger. I was feeling more and more out of sorts, so I happily called it an early night hoping to bounce back for the next day.
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| Bunratty Castle |
The rain had made its return overnight, along with my cold, solidifying itself for the long haul. I had another long day planned today, and my mood was not ideal for what laid ahead of me. I enjoyed a delicious, but brief, traditional Irish breakfast before heading straight to a well known region highly regarded for its views and famous road...Connors Pass. Known for its extremely narrow roads and steep cliff walls, it was commonly recommended for tourist not to drive it...but naturally this made me want to do it more, obviously.
As I approached the short stretch of single lane highway that carved itself over the mountain pass, my much anticipated exuberance began to dwindle as I weaved my way through the thick clouds cloaking the views I had heard so much about. A few moments later, I was through, and all that was left was the popular small town of Dingle only a few km ahead down in the valley below. Battling my disappointment within, I continued onward, hoping Dingle would make up for the lackluster start, but the rain only got worse, making it much more challenging to take in the picturesque harbour town properly. I walked a few streets trying my best to fully enjoy the experience that was laid out in front of me, but with all the views being socked in by clouds, compiled with the ever relentless rain, I abbreviated my stay and continued to the famous Kerry loop.
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| Dingle, colourful harbour town |
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| Driving through Connors Pass |
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| Yup, room for 1 on a 2 way road |
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| Just imagine these views on a clear day |
I knew adding this 150km detour was a risk with the limited visibility, but I was here, and I had to at least try....regret is something I do not deal with well lol. The beginning of the loop (north side) was quite average under the circumstances with weather and all, but once the road started making its way back east near the end of the loop, things started to look more “favourable”. There were a few unique beaches which I stopped at, even one allowing me to drive right to the edge of the water. The vast ocean meeting the rugged Irish coast started to have a more dramatic look to it, allowing me to forget the disappointment only just a few hours ago. I was back on track enjoying the experiences Ireland was so famous for.
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| Took the views from my car right on the beach |
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| Near the end of the Kerry loop |
The Kerry loop experience concluded by spitting me into the Killarney National Park, and even though many of the popular view points were moot due to thick cloud, there were still many opportunities available to enjoy the beautiful park. Torc Falls was a beautiful short hike blanketed with a thick canopy, Muckross House and the nearby Abby were interesting buildings tucked along the Muckross Lake just outside of Killarney, and even in the rain, I was able to enjoy my surroundings, but time was now getting away from me. I decided to conclude my road tour and headed into Killarney to check into my Airb&b.
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| Torc falls path |
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| Muckross House |
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| The Abby, quiet area I was able to enjoy all to myself |
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| Finally some blue sky |
Killarney was quite small, and it took me no time to walk the several popular streets. At this point, I couldn't ignore the hunger pestering me anymore, so I....you guessed it, cheaped out and went to a grocery store, only this time, I raised the bar one notch higher on the pathetic scale...buying an expired carrot salad and tuna wrap....but it was half price! Lol. Don't judge;) This would just allow me to have more Guinness in Dublin later on. I slowly made my way back to my rural abode, stopping along the way to grab a local craft beer, and then called it a night.
Day 13
Today was the final dash back to Dublin to conclude my Ireland tour. I inhaled an early breakfast laid out by my Airb&b host the night before, and was efficiently out the door before anyone else was even awake. My goal was to see the Ross Castle before it opened, taking advantage of the lighting and quiet atmosphere....and thankfully I succeeded on this immensely.
I walked the entire grounds, taking in the tranquil ambiance with not a soul in site. I couldn't imagine seeing this ancient relic any other way, and highly recommend it!
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| Loved this moment! |
Once I had my fill of Ross Castle, I decided to putz my way back to Cahir and Cashel on smaller rural roads, trying my best to avoid the mega toll freeways as long as possible. Both towns had their own unique feel to them with each castle having their own contrasting styles. At this point I was getting a bit “castled out” (seems to be a common theme with me on many of my trips), so I made each stop abbreviated. I found myself eager to get to my final destination and settle down in Dublin for a few days before my long flight back home.
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| Cahir |
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| Cashel |
Pulling into Dublin's major ring-road, things began to not go as smooth as one would hope for. I had issues filling up my tank, forcing me to convince the crappy car agency that it was indeed full, the needle was just not responding. After that, I carelessly got off the wrong stop from the express airport bus, forcing me to use my mad Jedi navigating skills to get myself back on track. Thankfully, that would be the end to the struggle, and after relaxing for a few hours, I made my way to a cozy nearby pub (Bleeding Horse, build in the 1700's) and had several tasty Guinness before calling it a night.
Day 14
Researching a previous route completed by someone online, I decided to follow in their footsteps adding minor detours to my 14km route. The sun was out in full force, so positive vibes were flowing as I made my way out around 9am. The Guinness brewery was first in line, but there was no way I was going to pay the 25 Euros to see how beer was made, so I walked around the periphery of their complex until I felt content to continue onwards.
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| Love the chariot adding to this pick |
Crossing the Liffey river, I briefly stopped at the Wellington Monument before continuing east to the Jameson Distillery. The distillery itself was not the high point here...it was the hipster vibe square that stood out. Modern condos surrounded a well designed public space, and as I took some time to relax in the sun by sitting on one of the many cement ledges laid out within the grassy space, I watched the locals play guitars, read books, even squeezing in a nap before getting back to work. People watching is one of my favourite passions, and this spot was ideal for it.
After 30 minutes or so, I continued back across the river, walking right past the Dublina Cathedral. I continued following the busy Lord Edward street (clogged full with tourists and tour busses), until I ran into the popular Temple bar region known for its shopping and nightlife. It was here I enjoyed a quick big mac before resuming the walk, this time crossing back over the river on the Ha' Penny bridge to the surprising Spire. I had no idea this was a thing in Dublin, and I felt like I was the only one transfixed by this thing as I took a moment to gaze upon it in awe.
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| Not sure why, but this thing was so damn cool |
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| Ha'Penny bridge |
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| Classic Dublin street |
I picked up the pace making my way along the river towards the ocean, passing the Famine Memorial before crossing the dramatic Samuel Beckett bridge to the Grande Canal, another modern square encapsulating the outdoor lifestyle. I took a seat beside one of the many business people enjoying their lunch watching a group of people being taught how to stand on a paddle board. The sun was really beating down now, and after 30 minutes or so, I was compelled to lug my ass off the baking concrete. I finished my walk through several bustling pedestrian streets as well a few peaceful parks.
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| Famine Memorial |
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| Grande Canal |
I was feeling a bit fatigued, and with a long flight the following day, I decided to finish the day relaxing, at times walking random routes nearby to pass the time. My UK/Ireland trip was coming to an end, which might of been a blessing in disguise. Traveling solo, avoiding all hostels, and having a weak Canadian dollar, all contributed to a REALLY pricy trip ...time to replenish the old bank account;)
Day 15
The Dublin Airport was easy to navigate early in the morning, and as we lifted off the tarmac towards Canada, I closed my eyes and began to brainstorm where my next big adventure would be...maybe Peru/Columbia/Ecuador?
